Zentral Sulawesi -Togean Islands - Tana Toraja

Leiter ist es seit den letzten news sehr viel spaeter geworden. es ist ziemlich gar nichts los in zentral sulawesi, was mit "normalem" internet vergleichbar waere...

nun, wir sind in pontianak angekommen (west borneo) und haben uns zu einer fahrt auf sogenannten ojets (wie ein taxi, aber mit kleinen motorraeder) ueberreden lassen, um vom flughafen zum hotel zu kommen. das von uns genannte hotel war aber leider nicht mehr in betrieb, ein zweites war aber schnell gefunden.

am selben abend, haben wir uns mit Alex getroffen, welcher einer der wenigen menschen in pontianak war, der englisch sprach. (wir waren 1 woche in west borneo, und habenn keinen einzigen europaeer gesehen....!!!)

nach vielen hin und her, und ein paar verbalen auseinandersetzungen zwischen mir und kim, haben wir uns fuer ein relativ teures jungeltrecking im gunung palung nationalpark entschieden. auf eigene faust hatten wir nicht nur viiiiel laenger gebraucht, sondern waeren evtl. gar nie dorthin gekommen...

in jedem reisefuerer steht, waehrend dem Idilfitri (moslemischer festtag, ende des fastenmonats) soll indonesien nicht bereist werden....und voila, genau zu dieser zeit waren wir dort. wir hatten glueck, einen carrier, einen guide und einen translater zu finden, welche bereit waren bis 1 tag vor idilfitri mit uns in den jungel (genauer gesagt Regenwald) zu kommen. wir verbrachten 3 tage und zwei naechte mittem im regenwald, wo komische kaefer in einer imensen lautstaerke verschiedene uhrzeiten (!!) ziemlich genau ankuendigen, kleine skorpione, witzie froesche, affen usw....aber....sie haben das moskitonetz vergessen...

nun waren nicht unbedingt die moskitos das problem, sondern all die viecher, die sonst so in einem regenwald zuhause sind. grosse hornkaefer, 100 und 1000-fuessler, andere kaefer und spinnen.

es war nicht unbedingt astrengend, aber so heiss, dass wir beide voellig durchnaest eine dusche in einem regenwald bach nehmen mussten.

nach 3 tagen im urwald, kommen einem andere menschen sofort ziemlich komisch vor, und wenn dann die rueckfahrt (2-h in einem oeffentlichen bus auf holperpiste, und 7 stunden in einem speedboat mit karaokefreaks) dann sind menschen ploetzlich ziemlich nervig!!!

am naechsten tag sind wir von pontianak nach jakarta und von jakarta nach palu (zentralsulawesi) geflogen. dieses unterfangen ist an sich eine geschichte wert, da keiner englisch sprach, der screen am flughafen ohne vorwahrnung von "checking open" auf "deparature" wechselte usw. wir sind auf jeden fall in palu angekommen, fanden ein kleines, nicht tolles aber sauberes zimmer, wo die allzeit hilfsbereiten indonesier uns sogleich einen platz im bus nach ampana fuer den naechsten morgen organisierten. die reise sollte 11h dauern....unser glueck kam uns zu hilfe, und schickte uns noch mehr leute welche nach ampana wollten, so beschlossen die betreiber kurzerhand ein mit klima ausgestatteter, sehr konfortabler neuer personenwagen hinzuzunehmen , wo wir drin platz nehmen durften.

nach rund 12h autofahren und 2kg reis pro person (morgens/mittags/abends) kamen wir schliesslich in ampana an, von wo wir eine faehre nach waka (togean islands) nehmen wollten. im hotel oasis, war unter den anderen backpackers bereits eine riesen hysterie ausgebrochen, weil wegen den feiertagen die boote nicht regelmaessig fuhren, keine geld automaten funktionierten (und somit auch keine teuren charaterboote bezahlt werden konnten) usw. mit alex und asleigh (ein paar aus england, welche uns bis nach tana toraja begleiten) behielten wir die ruhe, und bekamen tickets auf einer fahere nach wakai, von wo aus wir mit booten nach kadidiri in unsere resorts gebracht wurden. wir waren nun also 3 tage unterwegs bisher, und fanden ein wirklich paradisisches inselfeeling vor (mit ausnahme der kuehlen stimmung zwischen den beiden resorts, aber das ist eine andere geschichte) verbrachten wir eine ganze woche zwischen inseln, farbigen korallenriffs, voellig abgeschnitten zur ausenwelt.

es gab kueles bier, massenhaft tauch und badegelegenheiten, aussergewoehnliche tiere, gute zimmer und gutes essen.

nach 6 tagen faulenzen, brachen wir auf, um nach rantepao (ein ort in zentrala/sued sulawesi) wo bis heute noch jahrhundert alte rituale zur beerdigung durchgefuehrt werden. also los. mir bestiegen wieder die fahere (welche mitlerweile wieder planmaessig loslegten) und kamen nach 4,5h in ampana an, wo sich jedoch noch nicht viel veraendert hatte. wir hatten noch immer kein geld (die woche auf der insel konnten wir zum glueck per kreditkarte bezahlen) die buse nach poso (um von dort weiter nach rantepao zu kommen) waren alle voll. wir verhandelten mehrere stunden mit den locals (welche die unfreundlichsten von ganz indonesien zu sein scheinen) welche uns versuchten uebers bett zu ziehen..wir sind also mit einem charterauto und einem driver nach poso gestartet, um am naechsten tag einen bus nach rantepao zu nehmen. diese busfahrt dauerte 11h und ich werde nie nie mehr etwas gegen die oeffentlichen verkehrsmittel der schweiz sagen....

gestern sind wir nun in tana toraja angekommen und haben heute mit gemieteten motorraeder eine beerdingung besucht, was nun das schrecklichste war, was ich jemals in meinem leben gesehen habe....worte koennen das gar nicht beschreiben wie das dort zu und her gegangen ist. ich sage nur, es waren an tragen gebundene schweine, welche ueberall verstreut herum lagen, quieken, zum teil schon tod, bevor sie geschlachtet wurden usw....."that...was mental" ich konnte dem ganzen knapp 5 min. zusehen, bevor ich mich richtung motorraeder aufmachte, um dort auf die anderen zu warten.

nun werden wir sehen wies weiter geht. eventuell, werde ich bald noch ein paar bilder hochladen koennen, das internet hier ist aber so ungemein langsam, dass ich fuer ein paar bilder den ganzen tag einen pc mieten muss...

nun den, ein kuehles bier und ein gutes nachtessen, werden die graeuel von heute nachmittag vergessen lassen.

liebe grues a aui

chrigu und kim

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